Who Made This?

It is curious to come across a bracelet of this caliber and discover it is unsigned. The maker has the keenest understanding of design and craftsmanship: of beauty, symmetry, and texture and expertise in the technical aspects of jewelry construction. We have our hunches. Do you?

A handmade, one-of-a-kind, textured and polished 18 karat gold wide bracelet. Circa 1970. United Kingdom. 7.20 inches by 2.25 inches.

 
 

Andrew Grima

Andrew Grima was the man with the Midas touch. Fearlessly modern, the epitome of elegance, he was perhaps London’s most influential jeweler in the 1960s and 1970s. His bold approach to rethinking jewelry design and cultivating patrons across society, from the Queen to avant garde artists, was unparalleled. A recent book by William Grant entitled Andrew Grima: The Father of Modern Jewellery highlights Grima’s impact on modern jewelry.

 

Burle Marx

Haroldo Burle Marx was described in 1967 by TIME magazine as the manufacturer of “Brazil’s most exquisite jewelry”. His older brother, Roberto, a Renaissance artist, was the design genius behind the brand.

A pair of forma livre carved rubellite and 18 karat gold earrings, by Haroldo Burle Marx, c. 1985. Brazil. Post and clip closure for pierced ears. Earrings measure 0.90 inch by 0.55 inch.